Can you please share with us what you do in life?
I work for an exhibition agency and tour around world exhibitions organised by different museums or private collectors. It’s such an interesting job. The exhibitions I work with extend beyond the fields of science, art, design, fashion and photography.
I am curious about how viewers emotionally react to an exhibition?
There are a lot of studies on how people feel after viewing an exhibition. Normally, you feel well and happy, and these studies have shown a correlation between the release of endorphins (natural feel-good chemicals) and an increase in the emotional well-being of visitors to museums. Museums can be good for people, positively influencing mood and reducing stress hormones, while also generating an increase in immune capacity and cardiovascular reactivity. It is quite interesting how our mind, watching a beautiful piece of art, reacts positively. Museums could become a place for well-being, and help people feel better.
Please name your favourite museum?
I love so many museums that it's difficult to make a short list, however, my favorite one is the V&A. I love its eclectic collections and its temporary exhibitions are amazing; well curated, super interesting, and a great mix of art, design, fashion and photography.
Please could you give us examples of your favourite artists?
At this moment, my favourite artists are Gerhard Richter, for his photorealistic paintings, the American figurative artist Alex Katz and Bridget Riley.
What gives you energy during the day?
Living with nature around gives me a lot of energy. I am fortunate to live in Lake Como, where the landscape from my window is so incredible: sometimes poetic and melancholic, sometimes dramatic. I also love that I can experience and feel all four seasons here, and each is so beautiful in its own right. I remember living in Milan, where I felt that every day was the same, and it was such an event if the sun came out. Here at Lake Como, you can enjoy the rain, the wind and the sun. It is nice also to have different emotions throughout the year.
What does Lake Como represent for you?
I have to tell you, I was very surprised when we moved here, as I was resisting it. I wasn’t very happy to leave Milan. But when I arrived, I met so many new friends. There is a great international community. Life is interesting here, and it is more important what you make out of a place than what the place makes out of you. Plus, there are some great hiking trails just behind the house, up on the mountains overlooking the lake.
You have a beautiful home. How do you approach creating space?
We really wanted to have a home which incorporated all our design pieces and memories, which we collected throughout the years. When we moved here, we didn’t want to buy any furniture, as we wanted to feel the atmosphere and the mood of the house. Still, we don’t have a proper living room, as we are still thinking of how to make it our own. So we are slowly getting there.
What foods bring you joy?
Pizza. It is such a fun meal, and always brings a smile to my face! And very important, you should drink chinotto or beer (never wine!).
Please share with us your tips about hosting your friends and family in your beautiful home. What aspect do you find important? What do you like to cook?
I like my friends to feel at home in my house and share with them the joy of small things, such as enjoying a good dish or a drink, or moments of leisure and relaxation. I’m obsessed with baking bread and I'm very lucky my husband loves to cook!
How do you feel when wearing Oyuna pieces?
I feel so chic, and I love the feeling of OYUNA cashmere on my skin. It is something more than a nice jumper or a nice scarf. I feel hugged by the garment. It is such a great feeling. The pieces are comfortable, and I always feel very good in them.
What does sustainability mean to you?
Sustainability is everyone's responsibility, to take care of our world: our planet and our society.
What do you think when I say “blue”?
The sky.
Strength?
My Grandma (on my mother’s side). She was such a fantastic woman, raising five children in the 1940s, and working at the same time. She was never tired.
Softness?
My dog, Thea.
Beauty?
Roman Sculptures.
]]>
Can you give us a short history of the umbrella as an object?
Jonas Hanway, in the late 1700s, was the first to create an umbrella for rain in London. Prior to this, it was referred to as a “parasol” and primarily served as a fashion accessory. The umbrella originated in China around 2000 B.C. and was initially used as an accessory for emperors. Assyrians. Babylonians, and Ancient Greeks also used them to shade from the sun. The umbrella gained popularity as a fashion item when it arrived in France. However, it was in England that its function evolved into its modern usage.
The earliest umbrellas were constructed using whale bones as ribs due to their flexibility. Subsequently, the British began utilising metal ribs and wooden shafts, sometimes using one tree trunk . Only later, the British used metal ribs and wood shafts - sometimes using one tree trunk as the wood shaft.
When you travel, how do you travel?
I have always travelled by car. Throughout my life, I estimate that I have travelled around 1 million kilometres by car. I used to drive to London and back to Milan in two days. I don’t like to travel by air, and London is such a great city to visit. During my stays in London, I would frequent the Imperial Hotel, where the porter at the entrance always greeted me with a warm smile. One of my favourite parts of the journey was the ferry crossing. If I travelled in the morning, I would enjoy scrambled eggs; in the afternoon, fish and chips accompanied by a fine pint of beer. The ferry journey lasted around an hour and half, and it was always an incredible experience.
The value of objects has changed a lot over the years. What are your thoughts on sustainability?
Historically, sustainability was part of our practices, as we prioritised quality over quantity and avoided overconsumption. Personally, I don’t like the word, as it is a new word created by brands to justify their overproduction. It is an irony as brands need to over-produce to maintain higher turnovers - it is the opposite of quality and therefore of sustainability.
For me, sustainability means working with artisans and striving to achieve the utmost quality in production. The people who appreciate real quality, understand sustainability and are not looking for brands.
What was your happiest moment in life?
My life was so great and I was always happy. I joined the Army in the Sixties, as it was mandatory at the time. The day I finished my military service, I started working in my family’s factory, producing homemade umbrellas. We were five brothers and we grew up in that factory. All the employees were family - I have the best memories and the best moments of my life around umbrellas.
You are one of the most photographed men during Pitti Uomo. What do you think is the key to a Men Style?
I believe that you must combine colours properly. Before leaving the house, I always make sure that the tie, and the shoes are all in harmony with what I am wearing. When I walk, people are looking at me, either because of my height (195 cm) or my white hair, and I think I owe it to them to always look good.
How does it feel wearing an Oyuna creation?
I love cashmere; the very word itself feels like a caress. In my childhood, we had lambswool, Shetland wool, and merino; all sourced from England, but none were as soft as cashmere. Its gentle touch on the skin is unparalleled. To me, cashmere is both lightweight and warm.
What do you think is the secret to a happy life? You are such a positive person. You are about to enter your 81st year, you had a few setbacks, but you are beaming, full of energy. What is your secret?
I am a positive and happy person. I had a great life, I love travelling and meeting people. There is no jealousy or envy, I like to interact with people as you always connect with the human spirit and with a smile.
What do you think when mentioning the word “strength”?
I think about the human strength, the spirit to face adversity and to be positive. Not the muscular and physical strength, but the inside strength.
What does “beauty” mean to you?
For me, beauty is a Woman. As my mum used to say “what is beautiful is not beautiful, but what is liked” (in Italian “non e’ bello cio’ che e’ bello, ma cio’ che piace”).
What do you think when I say the word “blue”?
Of aristocracy, such as blue blood.
What does Milan mean to you?
It is my city. I love it here. Milan l’e’ un gran Milan.
When you travel, do you pack an umbrella?
Of course, I have a few of them, always.
]]>@davaayamdelgerjargal @noiseartmedia | FB: Noise Art Media
How did you find your passion for photography?
I started taking photos with black and white film when I was 16, but I dreamed of becoming a construction engineer. Somehow fate made me into a photographer. I do not regret it at all. It is a bliss to do something that one truly loves. I graduated from university in 2009 with a degree in cinematography and television.
I take documentary photographs. I like to capture everyday life, portraits and stories of people. I have been working as a photography teacher at the school since 2011. In 2013 I set up an organisation called Batzorig Foundation to help develop documentary photography in Mongolia. We organise a photography exhibition called New Creatives every year. This exhibition aims to support young photographers. In August 2021, I set up a Noise Art Media photo agency together with some of my students and also some participants of the New Creatives exhibitions.
Please share with us your approach to photography
The beauty of photography comes from feeling peoples’ lives more than they do. Sometimes it is more enjoyable to chat than taking photos. I prefer to take a few quality and precious shots with a meaningful understanding of the story, than to take tons of images with not much substance.
What has influenced you in your photography
The saddest moment in my life was when my father passed away in 2020. From that moment I had to reflect about life a lot.
That is when I started traveling alone in the vast valleys and mountains of Mongolia for 7-14 days at a time, taking photos. It is a great pleasure for me to sit on a long-distance country bus for 36 hours, covering 1,400 km, looking out of the window and thinking about the past and the future. I meet dozens of interesting people and families on my trips, which is important and interesting for me and my work. One of the outcomes of these trips is a project called “Fewer than few”, featuring the diverse population of Mongolia - culture and people of different ethnic groups - through my images. This project might take 5 years, maybe 10 or even 20 years.
How is it to be a photographer in Mongolia?
Today's society in Mongolia is very interesting, especially the ger districts. Photographing everyday life in the ger districts is fascinating, and also close to me, because I was born and raised in the neighbourhood. One of the projects I did was a photo exhibition called “Ulaanbaatar’s smoke and wood theft”. It was a project showcasing how people from the ger districts had no choice but to cut down trees in nearby mountains illegally, to keep themselves warm and also sell firewood to make their living.
Another photo project that was born from the ger district visits was an exhibition showing pictures taken 18 years ago, compared with pictures taken nowadays - how some people in the ger districts are making their streets greener, improving their homes, while others, the less hard working ones, are just stagnating with run down homes and dirty streets. It showed how many schools and buildings are being built there - showing that the ger district is becoming an official district of its own. It also showed how 18 years ago there was much less pollution, and the ger district was very small, whereas nowadays the ger district has grown a lot. This exhibition showed both good and bad in an equal way.
You took beautiful pictures of our nomads. What do you think is the best and also the toughest thing about being a nomad?
Feeling the freedom and space of the land, seeing livestock flourish, and living at one with nature, through the heat and cold of the seasons — that must be the best thing about being a nomad in Mongolia. I find it challenging to preserve our nomadic culture and traditions for generations to come while also embracing modern developments.
What does sustainability mean to you?
For me, it means the perfect balance in all areas: work, life, climate, society, environment — right down to the smallest stone.
Please share with us your latest news
As I mentioned before, when I first learned photography, I learned to take photos in a dark room with black and white film. This year I created a photo lab for myself, processing only black and white film. While everyone else is flocking to digital, I'm going back to film. An interesting fact to mention is that this is the only film processing laboratory in Mongolia at the moment. It's kind of cool that all the film and paper toners I am working with are 25-35 years old and have long expired. Images taken on film have so much more depth in them.
What is most precious to you?
My parents.
What does beauty mean to you?
Four seasons of Mongolia.
What does land mean to you?
To me, land represents freedom and a country’s independence.
What does the colour blue represent for you?
Cold.
]]>laetitiadeallegri.com | @laetitia_dea
What does colour mean to you?
For me, colour is life and energy. It's vibrant, like music.
What is your favourite colour?
It depends on my mood, I react to colour in a very instinctive way, so my favourite colour always changes. Often the colour of the clothes I am wearing is the favourite one for the day. I am a colour lover so I love almost all the colours, the bright ones, the most subtle ones… I had some phases of oranges and blues.
When you design your spaces, how do you go about the choice of materials that you use?
There is always a combination, but most of the time I use honest materials. I try to be as sustainable as possible with my choices of materials and designs. I work a lot with recycled materials, do a lot of research about them and new materials in general. Designing with longevity in mind is probably my main ethos, making sure whatever the project - product/furniture/spaces things - lasts a long time, using mostly honest, natural material and designing in a respectful way. Another aspect when selecting a material apart from its fabrication properties and visual, is how the material makes you feel, the touch, the smell, are also very important. I tend to use natural materials which are often easier to connect with in the long run.
How do you choose materials?
What fits the light, the space, the architecture and the functionality of the space. I want it to feel like a home. You want to feel comfortable. It's nice to have natural materials that bring you back to nature, that bring you back to the essential elements.
What is your favourite part of your home?
Our living room - full of windows, full of light. It's a spacious, multifunctional area where the kitchen and living space coexist. We love this setup. Inviting friends over, cooking together - the community aspect is very important to us. We have a nice record player and we enjoy listening to good jazz and classical music.
How do you keep mindful of sustainability in your practice?
Sustainability is longevity. Make sure your products are designed well and to last, not just for a trend. The best way to be totally sustainable is really hard to define. It depends where the material comes from, how it's extracted. Make sure it is timeless and well made.
What is your favourite project that you've worked on?
The "Mise-en-abyme" I did in collaboration with Matteo Fogale for London Design Week at the Victoria & Albert museum. The feedback was the most rewarding part. Often I design products and I enjoy them myself, but I don't know how other people will take them in their life or what their feelings towards them will be. You design for people and that's the most rewarding part.
To finish off, I have a few simple questions. You can respond with a word or a couple of words…
If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
Sea.
Strength?
Love.
Softness
Cashmere and my baby's skin.
Beauty?
Nature and balance.
Peace?
In nature, for sure. My favourite place would be the beach, in front of the sea. Vast nature. I like to go where there's nobody. Where you really feel the power of nature.
How do you feel when you're wearing Oyuna pieces?
Truth and honesty.
]]>@yasminhasss
It‘s definitely influenced my music taste and songwriting. For me it’s important I draw on the eclectic genres I listened to growing up, weaving them into one another, to hopefully create my own sound. As culturally, the music from both sides of my background are quite different, but I think they compliment each other in the best ways.
What are your "desert island discs" (pick 3, and tell us how they've influenced your life / music / style and why!)
Resolution - by Matt Corby: I listened to it with two of my best friends pretty much on repeat for 2 hours, when we were on holiday. After that, anytime I needed to escape on my own and not be able to physically, I’d play that song on repeat for a while.
Something’s Coming - West Side Story: Stephen Sondheim is my favourite lyricist. This song represents that thrilling feeling, when you know something is about to change in your life for the better, or you’re on the brink of something creatively/personally that you know has exciting potential.
Tonight - West Side Story: It has to be from West Side Story twice for me. This is one of my favourite love songs of all time!
I wrote Goodbye at a time when I knew I needed to end a relationship, as it was no longer serving either of us in the way that it should’ve been, or had been in the beginning. So eventually I had to face the confrontation I’d been avoiding and set a boundary, by putting myself first, whilst knowing I was nervous of the change it would bring.
We know you take a hand in your own creative direction, eg. your album covers and photoshoots. As a model, you've been on many, and as a singer you can now have more of a voice in your own direction. Tell us about what inspires you visually, during this process?
It can be anything from overhearing a conversation on the tube one morning, from a painting in a gallery, a character in a book, or a lightbulb moment as I’m drifting off to sleep. Film and theatre I also find helpful to spark something visually inspiring. And then of course, Pinterest. Slightly addicted to pinning things I find!
How is your "on stage" style different from your everyday style? Or is it not?
To be honest I haven’t quite figured out my style on stage yet. I go with how I’m feeling on the day, but so far it’s been very relaxed and similar to my day to day wear. But I definitely want to experiment some more, as I love fashion.
What artists have personally influenced you recently? List some of your favourites, and why?
Paolo Nutini’s a big inspiration of mine. I absolutely love everything about his music. And Leif Vollebekk’s another one. His melody’s and piano playing I could listen to for hours.
Definitely when I’m making music. It forces me to think about my truths and what I have/want to say.
What are your favourite pieces from OYUNA's present collection?
I love everything, but I’m obsessed with the Nina cashmere top! I’ve been wearing mine pretty much every day, over a shirt or t-shirt.
To finish off, I have a few simple questions; you can reply with a word or a couple of words… If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
Sky
Strength?
Vulnerability
Beauty?
Earth
Softness?
Cashmere
]]>goldenbridgeyoga.com | @gurmukh198
Gurmukh: My name is Gurmukh, which has many translations in the scriptures. However, the one that resonates with me is "one who helps thousands of people across the world's oceans”. The yoga I teach can help you cross world oceans to build more grace, more strength, more heart because you come into the awareness of who you are. Gurushabd: And my name is Gurushabd. The word guru means “that which takes us”, meaning in my case me, from dark to light and the word shabd means the sound current. So, for me my deepest connection to my spirit and soul is through chanting or music that uplifts me.
For those who may not be familiar with kundalini yoga, would you explain what your work is about?
Gurushabd: Essentially, our work is centred around humanity's ancient knowledge of how to use the body and connect with our magnetic energy, or Kundalini energy, to maintain our relationship with infinity or that place where the spirit resides. Through its unique breathwork and strengths building dynamic poses, Kundalini yoga has physical benefits for the body, but it is difficult to explain further benefits for the mind without experiencing it firsthand. It is akin to discussing the concept of love without ever having felt it. It is a philosophical concept that must be experienced to fully understand it. Maybe even after that you can't tell what happened, but it made you feel amazing. However, we have found that through the practice of Kundalini yoga, individuals can achieve a greater sense of well-being and clear focus.
Will you please share with us your teaching?
Gurmukh: As a teacher with over 54 years of experience, I have found that the key to effective teaching is collaboration and a deep understanding of the body and mind. My husband and I both have unique approaches to teaching that complement each other. He focuses on leading deep meditations and playing the gong, while also teaching yoga. Meanwhile, I prepare my students and provide them with the tools they need to fully engage in his teachings, enabling them to truly feel the benefits of these practices. Throughout my years of teaching, I have come to appreciate the endless possibilities for growth and learning that come with yoga and meditation. One example of this is the meditation technique, which involves dissolving conflict and negative thinking while listening to music. I have found this to be an incredibly powerful practice, with the potential to bring about deep personal transformation.
What drives you, what’s your inspiration?
Gurmukh: As I reflect on what drives me, I realise that my inspiration lies in my deep desire to help others. From early on I knew that I was meant to make a positive impact on the world, to keep serving, hugging, and feeding those in need. It has become my daily routine, my pattern, to wake up and think about what I can do today to make a difference. And when I look back, I can see that my purpose has been shaped by the kindness and service of others. Someone saved me through their generosity and compassion, and I have been forever changed by their example. What happens if we're not helping people? What if we're not making a positive impact on the world? It's a question that we all must confront at some point in our lives. For me, the answer is clear - if I'm not helping others, then I'm not truly living. I believe that we are all here to serve humanity, to make the world a better place in our own unique way. Whether it's through a phone call to a friend in need, teaching a class, or volunteering at a local charity, every act of kindness and service has the power to transform lives. So, what drives me? The desire to make a positive impact on the world, one small act of kindness at a time. And I hope that my example inspires others to do the same.
Certain poses are often done in 11 minutes in Kundalini yoga. Why exactly 11 minutes?
Gurushabd: 11 minutes is the time it takes to stimulate the glandular system, and balance it and for the blood to move all through the body. The glandular system is the guardian of our health. You should practise every day. This is because it takes approximately 11 minutes for the glandular system to fully activate and balance, and for blood to circulate throughout the body. The glandular system is a crucial component of our overall health, and by taking the time to activate and balance it every day, we can optimise our well-being and promote a deeper sense of calm and inner peace. Overall, I believe that the key to effective teaching is an open and collaborative approach, combined with a deep understanding of the body and mind. By continually exploring new techniques and approaches, and emphasising the importance of regular practice, we can unlock the transformative power of yoga and meditation and help our students achieve lasting personal growth and well-being.
You currently live in Tulum. Would you share with us how you came to the idea of moving there?
Gurmukh: It is a story that many can relate to when looking back at their lives, it was not something we had planned. And I always laugh when people make plans because God laughs even more. I was in Cancun to teach with a friend when we decided to take a side trip to Tulum. We were seeking solace from the chaos that was happening in the world, particularly in the United States. When we arrived in Tulum, we went to my favourite place, Palm, where people were laughing, eating, and enjoying live music despite the rest of the world being shut down. We encountered beautiful people along the way who had a unique language, and healing practices. They had bee temples where honey was considered sacred and had healing qualities. We even went to a sacred temple where honey was put in our eyes, resulting in clearer eyesight. We found it to be a mystical and healing experience. We began making trips back and forth until we started to envision having a house there, though we were not sure where it would be located. We initially planned to build our house in a mine-style, using rocks and wood, but we found that there were certain limitations to that style.
Gurushabd: One morning, I had the idea to build our house in the shape of a Fibonacci spiral, which is a natural pattern found in mathematics. Examples of it are the seeds of a sunflower and its even used in forecasting financial markets. So, we are building our house in Fibonacci spiral shape.
Gurmukh: Just commit. And work on yourself because whatever is bugging you about him or her is inside you. It's always a mirror, no exceptions. If my husband gets short tempered and angry, it's because he's feeling it inside of me. So, we work it out.
Gurushabd: I also emphasise the importance of open and honest communication, discouraging the habit of harbouring grudges or withdrawing from dialogue for extended periods of time. Such behaviours can breed feelings of misery and estrangement, jeopardising the very foundation of a strong marriage. Furthermore, I believe that finding purpose and inspiration in serving others can contribute significantly to the fulfilment and longevity of a marriage.
41 years in September.
Please share with us how you feel when wearing/using an OYUNA piece?
Wearing Oyuna feels like being wrapped in the softness of nature.
To finish off, I have a few simple questions; you can reply with a word or a couple of words…
If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
Sky.
Strength?
Commitment.
Beauty?
Creative woman.
Softness?
Gentle communication.
Timeless?
Tulum MX and India.
]]>mai-studio.com | @martina.meluzzi
Martina, you are an amazing host. Will you please share with us your hosting tips?
Thank you! Hosting is without doubt one of my favourite things. I am a perfectionist, so I like to think of every detail and make sure that the whole experience is exceptional. At the same time my style is laid back, my friends feel very much at home and behave naturally and independently around my house. It may sound contradictory… I suppose it’s the yin and yang of hospitality!
What is one of your favourite dishes to cook for your guests?
In the kitchen I like to improvise. My fridge is always full of seasonal products that come direct from local farmers. My larder is stocked with spices and seeds, and I like to cook with what I find. Most probably it will be pasta with lots of vegetables and crunchy nuts.
You go beyond just hosting your guests with a delicious meal and good atmosphere. You have designed and built your beautiful house in Sicily and give your friends and family a full experience. Please share with us your concept with which you approach your design work.
My design is about people and their emotions. It is about the experience and impact that architecture has in all senses. Therefore, when I design, I keep in mind many different aspects: the accents, the magnets, the calm, and the dynamic spaces, the introspective and the communal ones. The tension between those aspects generates a flow which is the essence of a space. I believe that to make a good design you must take a risk to be radical. Make a strong choice and mastermind the experience of the user, as opposed to giving infinite possibilities. I pursue comfort in equilibrium, stability, and clarity. There is a time, a place to savour everything and it doesn’t need to happen all at once.
How would you define architecture?
I believe that architecture is something that is perceived with all senses and the key element is the narrative and the experience. What matters is not only what you see but also the memory of what you have just experienced. What I pursue is harmony using geometry and light together to create depth and narrative.
Please name examples of your favourite buildings in the world
I like buildings that inspire contemplation. Amongst others, I love Louis Kahn, Tadao Ando, Alberto Campo Baeza, and John Pawson.
How would you describe yourself?
I am a meticulous observer of the world, I stare and absorb without a precise order, until suddenly my instinct takes over and I am ready to have my say. When this happens, I feel very determined and confident - like there is no other way. It would be easy if that instinct didn’t take me to many different places so very often... With the years I have learned to try to save the extra ideas for later and try to stick to one.
Is there anything you would like to achieve that you haven’t already?
I feel that my journey is just at the beginning, and I am quite excited at the prospect of what might come next. As an architect I would like to work on a sacred or spiritual building. Alongside architecture I would like to study botany and to learn how to DJ!
What inspires you in life?
Nature, without doubt.
Please share with us how you feel when wearing/using an OYUNA piece?
The first word that comes to my mind when I think of the OYUNA brand is organic. Wearing an OYUNA piece makes me feel more connected to nature.
To finish off, I have a few simple questions; you can reply with a word or a couple of words…
If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
Prosperity, self-realisation.
Strength?
Courage, determination, trust.
Beauty?
Mother Nature.
Softness?
OYUNA’s cashmere.
Timeless?
Nature. Natural materials. Geometrical order.
]]>@vanessa_vainio | @ab_anbar
You've worked in the art world and launched various galleries in London, as well as your own. What brought you here from Vancouver, and what would you say are your "greatest achievements" in the London art scene so far?
I came to London for art, it was important for me to be in one of the art capitals. For years I worked in galleries with spaces both in NY and London, and have always loved the pace of life here more. In London we have greenery and take a more European approach to life. Working with so many incredible artists over the years is definitely my greatest achievement - they inspire and challenge me.
Please share with us Ab Anbar Gallery’s concept and art they show.
Ab Anbar Contemporary Art gallery in London serves as a nurturing incubator that engages non-linear histories of art and history. Often diasporic, AB-ANBAR represents artists and develops projects with artistic voices from multiple latitudes who embody multiple forms of identity. AB-ANBAR’s exhibitions and programmes present artists who traverse the aesthetic and political, as well as social and psychological borders.
Where in the world do you feel the most inspired?
I love Greece - Athens is such a vibrant city that has an energy of renewal. Galleries and restaurants have popped up in disused spaces, there is so much creativity there. I of course love the islands, each one has its own identity, but I am happiest on a beach with a simple taverna with plastic chairs.
You live in Notting Hill (a close walk to our studio!). What inspires you in the area? Any favourite finds that our shoppers might want to know about in the neighbourhood?
I love the diversity of the neighbourhood, it's such an easy place to live with great pubs and restaurants. I rarely leave the neighbourhood on weekends - it’s farmers market and a stroll up to one of my favourite pubs. Golborne Road is one of my favourite spots, the tourists don't make it up there so it's all locals. Golborne Wine & Deli do amazing wines by the glass, and I always find something I never knew I needed at Les Couilles Du Chien.
What artists have personally influenced you recently? List some of your favourites, and why.
I see art every day and fall in love with a new artist every day. I love the work of George Rouy, his figurative canvases feature fleshy nudes washed in soft hues of pinks and blues. I saw Magdalena Abakanowicz yesterday at Tate and the exhibition blew me away, her sculptures made of woven fabrics challenged the boundaries of what was considered art. She took inspiration from folklore and in this exhibition presents her work in a forest of sculptures. Another artist's work which always inspires me is Cecily Brown, her approach to abstract painting questions and satirises the masculinity that has been historically linked to abstract expressionism. She paints with an evident eroticism that visually links contemporary pornography with Old Master painting.
Is there anything you would like to achieve that you haven’t already? (*can be in life, in career, up to you!)
Too much to even name. One thing I always have on my mind is trying to get my doctorate in Anthropology, but maybe this is something I will come back to later in life.
What is your favourite exhibition, partnership, or project that you've completed in the past few years? What felt so important or special about it?
I have launched so many exhibitions and special projects in my career. It's hard to name only one. Last year during Frieze week Ab-Anbar exhibited the work of Sonia Balassanian, an incredible artist in her late 70's. She hadn't had exposure since the 1980's and it was incredible to give her this platform - the exhibition was staged as a mini retrospective and showed the breadth of her work from performance art, installation and paintings. She is most known for her lyrical abstract paintings which have a very meditative quality to them. This exhibition brought Sonias work back into focus and we were able to place many of her works in incredible international art institutions.
What are your favourite pieces from OYUNA's present collection?
I have a beautiful DRANO skirt with the matching LEWA sweater, these have become the wardrobe staples I live in. Not only do they feel amazing, they are so comfortable and chic.
To finish off, I have a few simple questions; you can reply with a word or a couple of words…
If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
Yves Klein blue
Strength?
The brushstrokes of a painting
Beauty?
Poetry
Softness?
Looking into the eyes of someone you love
Timeless?
Finding a personal style
Uyanga is sitting outside her ger with her daughter, wearing a OYUNA signature blue sweater.
What is most precious to you?
My daughter.
What is the best thing about being a nomad?
Making food and shelter with our own hands is the best thing about being a nomad.
What do you think is one of the actions we should take towards a more sustainable future?
We all need to remember that our actions have consequences, and we should act accordingly. For example, plastic waste from heavily populated countries needs to be reduced and controlled, to avoid it being flown to far away pristine places such as this, where it can be ingested by livestock in our pastures and cause death.
Uyanga serves her guests traditional milk tea in silver cups.
What is a moment from your life that you would like to share with us?
Delivering and bottle-feeding our newborn lambs and kids are always beautiful moments for me.
What does land mean to you?
One’s place of birth.
Uyanga’s deel - traditional hand made robe with bright silk belt. The rooftop window of Uyanga’s ger (home).
What does the colour blue represent for you?
Sky.
What does beauty mean to you?
One’s soul represents beauty to me.
Uyanga and her husband outside their ger (home).
]]>The mix of snow peak mountains, desert, dozens of fresh and saltwater lakes, 200 fast-moving rivers, valleys, caves, ancient rock paintings and fortresses make Khovd one of the most beautiful Aimags in Mongolia.
What is most precious to you?
My wife, my children, and grandchildren.
What does beauty mean to you?
The unparalleled beauty of nature
What does land mean to you?
Land is the most precious resource given to us. It is what we have inherited from our ancestors, and what we must pass on to our future generations. The responsibility falls upon us to ensure that it is returned in its rightful condition.
What is the best thing about being a nomad?
Successfully delivering new-born livestock in the spring season after a tough winter is the biggest source of happiness and achievement for a nomad.
What does the colour blue represent for you?
Water.
What do you think is the most important action we should take towards a more sustainable future?
More support for young nomads would be great – that way, our nomadic culture and agriculture could continue to develop its sustainable practices.
Do you have a message to pass on to the people around the world?
Our livestock feeds on the wild herbs and grass directly from our pristine land — just like other wild animals — so its produce is truly amazing and completely organic. I don’t know if people know that.
Do you have a question for our community?
How do herders in other countries take care of the health of their livestock?
The warmth comes back to its birthplace.
We want to complete the conscious cashmere circle - returning the incredible warmth of precious Mongolian cashmere back to the guardians and creators of this pristine fibre
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In the last six years Mary has focused on integrating sustainability into her work, creating the first Oscars moment with a sustainably made gown by Prada for Olivia Colman. She has collaborated with Livia Firth and her Eco-Age consultancy on both editorial and Green Carpet Challenge projects, and consulted for The Waterbear Network, the world’s first interactive video on demand platform dedicated to saving the planet.
Not one to lockdown with a Netflix binge, during the pandemic Mary launched Greenwith Studio: a multi-disciplinary sustainability consultancy creating bespoke green solutions for entities across the fashion value chain. Her company are soon to release a white paper written for the British Fashion Council focusing on how technology empowers sustainability in fashion, especially for consumers.
@mary_fellowes | greenwithstudio.com
SOMERA Sweater Ivory LEXI Trousers Black
You're a polymath who has worked across top fashion and media brands for over two decades. We know you also recently studied at Cambridge University's prestigious Institute for Sustainability Leadership, and have been mindfully pivoting your luxury fashion career into sustainability for quite a few years now— frankly before this was a “trend.” What has inspired this career transformation?
No single incident inspired it. I grew up in an agricultural & rural community, where playing for us kids was being in the fields with farmers, and I have long lived my personal life in what would today be called a sustainable way, but to me it was just a way of life. For example thrift or charity shops was always just what we did with my Mum, and that carried through when I was in my teens - my friends were down at the mall or high street and I was at Portobello or Oxfam.
10 years ago I took a month’s sabbatical to go diving near Papua New Guinea with the marine biologist Dr Lawrence Blair — all my Vogue colleagues laughed at me for being a geek! However I have always just held onto what I knew was authentic and aligned with my values, and trusted my intuition.
If there was one single moment when I realised I just had to shift, and give up a healthy six figure salary, it was trying to convince designers to make sustainable gowns for actresses I was dressing for the Oscars and Baftas and Golden Globes (Phoebe Waller Bridge and Olivia Colman especially). I just couldn’t get the response I felt was true enough… so I realised there was such vast scope for change, so much opportunity to embed more purpose, and coupled moreover with an urgency that was non-negotiable. Essentially I couldn’t look myself in the mirror or sleep easy at night knowing I was endorsing and supporting a system that was destroying people and our planet. Rather than perpetuating the problem, I just had to be a part of the solution.
Where in the world do you feel the most inspired?
India inspires me hugely. Firstly, the warmth and genius humour, the colours, the happy chaos, the noise, the sensory overload (in a good way). But also from the ‘necessity being the mother of invention’ aspect. E.g. in the global north, we refer to a lot of countries as ‘developing.’ However, India to me feels significantly more developed in many ways. There are markets where you can go and endlessly repair or replace parts for electronics, they have a local tailor on every street corner, you can buy your food from the neighbour on the street where it is weighed and not sold in layers of plastic packaging and where odd shaped vegetables are not discarded.
They don’t have a welfare state, so communities tend to take care of their elders or the sick, or just form a net around those in need. I know under the bonnet it is far from perfect in other ways, such as income inequality and human rights, and especially gender equality….so it’s crucial not to over-romanticise. But with enough childlike curiosity, objectivity and humility, we always learn from how other cultures do things.
You moved into Barbara Hepworth's former studio on Hampstead Heath last year. What an iconic place to live. Tell us more about how your living space inspires your creative process?
I desperately need to be in nature. Up here, I swim in the ponds with the ducks. I walk my dog on the Heath and get blissfully lost in its mystical winding pathways. I wake up to only hear the birds, the main studio room is flooded with natural light. That way you are immersed in Mother Nature and guided by her. My studio is a case study of the same necessity being the mother of invention I mentioned above. It is cobbled together with a typical artists’ mindset — a creative and visually led approach to re-purposing. It is far from perfect in a traditional architectural or interior design point of view, but the imperfections and idiosyncrasies create space for imagination. In short, I can breathe and dream here.
"Sustainability" can mean various things to various people, and more transparency is needed in the communication of this word. How would you define it for us in a few simple words or sentences?
Let’s start with what it is NOT. Something is NOT sustainable just because slightly better eco-friendly materials or local/ artisanal processes around making are involved. Something IS sustainable when its creation leaves the planet and people in the same or a better state. In other words, when it doesn’t deplete natural resources, it doesn't exploit labour — instead when it empowers and uplifts.
When it measurably improves habitats and communities, that is the next iteration of sustainability, known as ‘regenerative.’ And from that, the target state is circularity. When nothing goes to waste or landfill, instead mirroring mother nature’s own perfect system where processes and organisms just endlessly go round and round in a perfect loop.
What are your favourite pieces from OYUNA's present collection?
It is almost impossible to choose one, as the tenderness, discipline and timelessness of her products are the next level. If I really have to choose, I’d say I live in her cashmere black trousers. They are sharp and tailored, but as comfortable as tracksuit bottoms.
Tell us about the oldest pieces you have from OYUNA — how do you style them for 'now’?
I use her pieces as minimal timeless backdrops — a blank canvas if you will… and change the accessories around. Some days I’ll channel The Row or 'old Celine’ by going for clean lines. Other days I’ll pile up a sweater with a mishmash cluster of thrift jewellery. I also love to play with texture — a backdrop of soft matte Oyuna with some sharp shiny metallics or patent or crystals makes for a great mix.
Do you have any crazy ideas for us on how to make classic pieces feel new again after years of love?
Whenever I have to go to a fancy dress party, I take extra time the week before to pull out my entire wardrobe and play dress up, just as I did when I was 4 years old. The insights it gives you by having a free reign over what would normally not be suitable for everyday outfits opens up the portals of the imagination. Suddenly I find myself putting things together I wouldn’t have considered before. It’s all about juxtaposition — you can create visual tension and oxymorons by throwing together items that might not belong traditionally together.
What are the most ephemeral pieces in your wardrobe? What do you have the most of, and go back to time and time again?
As clichéd as it sounds, Prada and Miu Miu. Anything that was made with intelligence, creativity, subtle wit, incredible quality materials, and not attempting to be ‘on trend’ but reflecting both a constantly revisited theme (in her case often the 1940’s or 1960’s-70’s), as well as being more poetic and profound — it generally doesn’t date.
How does a woman define these classic pieces for herself, in your opinion?
Classic is a word like luxury that gets bandied about too liberally. I believe that to be classic, an item’s design has to have its roots clearly anchored and presented in a recognisable sartorial archetype or trope. Such as the wide leg trouser (1970’s), the short trapeze dress (60’s), a mannish overcoat (Katherine Hepburn or 90’s grunge).
The trick is that it needs distilling down to its core elements — otherwise if it resembles a movie or theatre wardrobe item, the chances are it will be too retro and look too vintage (unless that's the message you want to get across — which is also fine and I do it a lot, it's just not for everyone).#
Is there anything you would like to achieve that you haven’t already? (*can be in life, in career, up to you)!
SO much. I always have something else to achieve — it is what drives me. Humility is key in that way - the alternative is going into retirement or getting bitter! I would like to write a book, front a TV series on fashion and climate change, and bolster my thought leadership.
Personally? Cultivate my cookery skills. Learn Arabic. Refine my Italian. Learn to make ceramics. Do much more life drawing. Scuba dive in Raja Ampat. Maybe even one day I will have my own sharing economy based, circular fashion line, but in a disruptive way and only when it makes the world a better place, and uplifts people and regenerates the earth. These are the kinds of things that keep me awake at night.
What is your favourite partnership or project that you've completed in the past few years? What felt so important or special about it?
Being profiled for my purpose driven work in the New York Times. Being commissioned by the British Fashion Council to author a white paper on the intersection of technology and sustainability for consumers. Attending and speaking at both Cop26 and Cop27. And being invited to lecture at Harvard. What felt important about both was that all my highest brain power could be deployed.
We have to always keep those mental muscles active and challenge ourselves. I really had to dig into my deepest layers of thought to communicate and articulate my views on how we have to change the fashion industry. Being given platforms like that is nothing short of an immense privilege.
It's been a tough but interesting past few years for our world. Tell us about a moment where you had a huge amount of fun?
The best fun was during the first lockdown — making a video with my then flatmate Bert, LGBTQ identifying and a nurse in the NHS, plus a performance artist. It was commissioned by Cartier's 'Over The Rainbow' initiative. We had all been stuck inside for months and in this dystopian existence none of us were prepared for. The day's filming ended and suddenly there was a gang of us crying with laughter and dancing like maniacs, completely sober, in my kitchen to Tina Turner. The sense of relief and release was nothing but visceral.
Also and always, my Dachshund puppy Tiger who is so naughty and funny, she makes me laugh every day. We play 'catch me if you can’ at bedtime when she has the Zoomies. It never fails to make me screech.
And having all my junior team who relentlessly take the piss out of me at work. When you are in a leadership role, it's so important to have some fun in the workplace. I can’t ever take myself too seriously, and once I show them I can laugh at myself, they can all do the same. And everyone then relaxes a bit and smiles.
What does Earth mean to you?
It means 2 things:
Literal earth, as in soil. It is where millions of nutrients, organisms and good bacteria live. It is what grounds us when we go barefoot. It is what allows us to eat, to grow and wear cotton etc. Alongside water and air, earth is the foundation of our existence.
And then there is Mother Earth, our planet. The source of all life. She has been around for millions of years but is now sick and sad, and all the critical damage we’re now seeing the results of has been done in about the last 70 years only. It’s so huge that when you try and think about it, it's overwhelming.
To finish off, I have a few simple questions. You can reply with a word or a couple of words…
Blue? Cotswold Legbars' eggs - the perfect soft blue.
Strength? Our late Queen’s inner strength.
Beauty? Venice.
Softness? Your cashmere.
Timeless? Respecting lessons from history.
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I'd been covering food and farming stories in the U.K. for a number of years as a print journalist and filmmaker and the lack of ethnic diversity in agriculture was obviously something I was aware of.
Entrenched rural demographics and a history of land being owned and inherited by a white wealthy few, means that access to farming is very difficult for those on the "outside", particularly those living in urban areas, making it the least racially diverse profession in the country.
I began researching more deeply and found that there were a number of farmers and food growers from diverse backgrounds who were making space for themselves. I thought it was vital that their story be told.
Making any film is a challenge from start to finish! It takes perseverance and you have to really care about the story you're telling because there will be so many barriers preventing it from happening. But it's incredibly rewarding to know that the people in it feel like I have done their stories justice.
My current documentary is about a radical rethinking of land ownership in Scotland. I’m inspired by the idea that land can deliver shared prosperity for many or privilege for a few. It can be a site of trauma but also a place of healing. This film unpicks the legacy of concentrated land ownership and explores how a new way is possible...
Food security is a huge issue. The global food supply chain is so connected; we've seen this with Russia's invasion of Ukraine. The UK government is not doing enough - in my opinion - to increase sustainable food production in this country.
I've been lucky to interview and film so many inspiring people, who are making the impossible happen.
My recent projects have been based in the U.K. and I've really enjoyed covering subjects in my own back yard. But I was born in the United States and my paternal roots are there (my great grandmother was Native American) so I have a yearning to return to make my next film...
I buy local, seasonal food as much as I can. I get around London by bicycle and I almost exclusively shop vintage & second hand for clothes!
Comforting, elegant and sensual.
@olliegtomlinson
I have always appreciated photography and have had a passion for creating beautiful imagery. After graduating from uni I moved to Berlin to pursue a role in Creative Production with arts and culture magazine, IGNANT. They gave me opportunities to photograph architecture and I have enjoyed following that path since. No day is the same.
New places. I love the visual/sensorial stimulation of arriving in a new country or entering a space with a unique and special atmosphere.
Trying to capture beauty in an original and unexpected way.
Quite an early one in a stunning townhouse on Princelet Street in East London. It was a magical location and we were playing with light and distortion to photograph flowers in the space - I’d love to explore it further.
I’d like to make a series based on Francis Bacon’s life and paintings. I feel his work translates so well into photography.
Oh plenty! Where to start…
As work begins to get busier and bigger projects come in, I am trying to balance my excitement for this with a sense of restraint. I’m trying to work in a way which is sustainable socially, environmentally and personally - it can be tricky.
Nothing beats a walk by the sea to feel more grounded and at peace, wherever you are.
Blue? The Sky
Strength? Perseverance, following your gut
Beauty? Twilight, Shadows
Softness? Touch
Precious? Time
@colindancel
When I go out, read and have conversations with different people. I am a curious person, I ask many questions, some of them will be stupid but I ask anyway. I love hearing what people (strangers, authors, friends, etc) have to say because I feel like each person opens up the world even more.
Admittedly, given the recent elections, it has been tough. Filipinos are grieving right now but I have to tell you that our spirits are unbreakable. I know the value of grit because I am a Filipino.
There’s this quote from a New Yorker article, “Being in Time” by Paul Bloom,
“Everything before belongs to memory; everything after is anticipation. It’s a strange, barely fathomable fact that our lives are lived through this small, moving window.”
Capturing movement and dance is precisely that but I get to memorialize some of it. Each routine may have the same steps but it will never be done the same way. I’d like to think it's a perverse and bold act, to try and freeze a moment - I like feeling bold.
As for my self-portraiture, I do this to come to terms with how I look. I struggle with feeling beautiful, I still do but when I take images of myself, I am reminded that I am allowed to take other forms, other than my physical appearance. I am allowed to explore what else I can be and also break free from the notions of what I am supposed to look like. That is incredibly empowering.
The shoot closest to my heart would be a personal project I have titled, “Forms of Grief” – this series received a grant from Angkor Photo Festival and that allowed me to explore and expand it further.
Forms of Grief is a project that is both an embrace and a surrender of our questions, grievances, anger, pain, and resentment. In creating that, I hoped to come to terms with how I understand life and loss; impermanence and existence. I think I created it to make peace with my father’s death.
It was a beautiful ode to photography too, “Forms of Grief is a marriage between movement and grief, photography being its witness.”
I would love the opportunity to shoot and create for a solo exhibition show. (I dream of shooting our girl, Zendaya)
There’s a lot that I dream of doing!
I dream of traveling, studying photography abroad, joining a residency program, of having my studio. I can go on and on! I’ve always felt like Moana, something calls me and I’m here to allow and make space for all these dreams.
Right now, I value learning and discomfort in the unknown. In a panel discussion with Adrienne Maree Brown, I asked her when do we know when we should stop growing. She answered,
“It is not a pause on growing, not on learning. There are so many different ways we can grow, sometimes it’s about deepening”.
I asked this because it felt too comfortable. Comfortable is good, I let it, I enjoyed that season but it needed to pass. I need to always ground myself back to creating space for what I do not know yet.
My favourite piece is the Melo in Beige. My relationship with clothing is growing too - it’s becoming a ritual and that piece felt most natural for me.
“First, notice that you’re breathing.
Take a few nice, full, easy breaths. You take about 20,000 breaths per day. Begin to notice a few of them.
Feel your feet on the floor. Feel your seat on your chair. Feel the chair holding you.
You sit on the chair, the chair is supported by the floor, and the floor is supported by the foundation of the building which is supported by the earth.
There’s an entire world under your feet, down there in the soil. There are worms and roots and insects and rhizomes and millions of microorganisms. Just sitting here in your chair, you are connected to the earth and all these living beings.”
Isn't it such a beautiful thing to know and feel that at this very moment there is an entire world holding you up?
Lanza Sweater in Beige
@jan_ernst_
I have a few simple questions; you can reply with a word or a couple of words. What comes to your mind when I say the following words...'
British Photographer Joe Harper and his wife, American model Kaila Wyatt Harper joined us for a CIRCLE conversation to celebrate the launch of the new NOMAD collection. Joe is wearing the ACHIT Hoodie and AXELI Trousers in Black, Kaila is wearing the NOMAD Sweater and AXELI Trousers in Ivory.
'I've always liked the quote from Robert Louis Stevenson, “To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive.” I also love the slogan "Road to Nowhere” from Talking Heads but used by a cycling brand now that I represent called Pas Normal Studios - Joe Harper'
About:
I am a photographer working within sportswear, documentary and fashion. Kaila is a model working with high fashion brands.
Interests:
We both enjoy travel, exploring new locales and usually end up documenting the process of discovering these new places. We used to travel frequently abroad for work and pleasure, often combining the two but since the pandemic hit we became more focused on exploring the UK. Especially now we have our dog Mila, she’s a border collie and has accompanied us all over the UK, up mountains summits, trail running, campervanning and wild camping - you name it!
We’re both very eco conscious and like to try and minimise out impact on the planet wherever we can.
1. When you hear the word Nomad what comes to your mind?
Here are a few one-word questions, please feel free to answer with one word or more if you’d like, what comes to your mind when you hear them?
Precious: Family
Softness: Fresh Linen
Blue: The Ocean
Strength: Bond
Environmentalist, filmmaker, model, entrepreneur, mother and actor Lily Cole has collaborated with OYUNA to create a unique collection, celebrating the very start of the cashmere supply chain, the nomadic goat herders.
Launching just in time for Earth Day, The NOMAD Collection celebrates the culture and lives of the nomadic herder communities in Mongolia that OYUNA has worked with for 20 years.
“To me, the Nomads are the epitome of freedom, confidence and beauty. They live their lives without fear or comparison. Their respect to the land in Mongolia is what inspired me to create the NOMAD collection after speaking with Lily about it on a set last year. This is our way of celebrating our Nomads and giving something back to them” - Oyuna Tserendorj
Giving back to our nomads…
Proceeds from The Nomad Collection will be donated to The Biodiversity and Livelihood Programme by the SFA. The programme supports the regeneration and preservation of ecosystems and protects the livelihoods of herding communities. Mongolia has one of the largest intact rangeland habitats in the world, with a unique assemblage of native wildlife. This program is targeted at three of Mongolia’s key regions: desert steppe, forest steppe and grassland steppe. Collectively, these regions are home to a wide range of internationally important animals and plants, many of which are endemic and globally threatened. To deliver the programme, the SFA is partnered with SFA-registered herding cooperatives, to adopt a community based and adaptive management approach to help provide positive outcomes for local wildlife and herder communities. Based on the Nutag* framework, this approach has proven to be effective for conserving natural habitats.
press: isobel@oyuna.com
sales: sales@oyuna.com
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Human being is how Lily Cole defines herself first. And then as an environmentalist, filmmaker, model, entrepreneur, mother and actor. This viewpoint is one of her key driving forces as she empowers those around her to embrace optimism when addressing environmental issues.
Her book "Who cares wins: Reasons for optimism in our changing world." is a summary of what different people, companies, academics and organisations are thinking about positive change to prevent environmental disaster.
Lily shares her thoughts with Oyuna on mindset, nomadism, land and life.
Oyuna: Can you share us your thoughts on using optimism for positive change? I innately believe in a human positive baseline.
Lily: I am too, and actually there's a big part about that in my book. Co-operation is such a big part of evolution and human nature - there are so many examples of humans being cooperative and kind. The idea that we’re innately selfish is somewhat of a myth, I think.
And in terms of optimism, for me optimism is rooted in believing anything is possible and we can choose the future we want. It doesn’t mean it’s going to turn out well, but we have the power to affect how it turns out. By being optimistic that a better future is possible we are more likely to create a better future.
Oyuna: You can’t make your dreams happen until you really decide that. Then they actually can come true.
Lily: Exactly that, we create our future in a way that if we are optimistic and we believe we can solve problems, and come together, we can overcome the different challenges we have. We’re more likely to actually make the effort and make the changes that are needed to get to that better future. And I also believe there are lots of things going in a positive direction, and there are lots of things that are not. There are a lot of scary things happening in the environment, but there are also a lot of people that are waking up, and there's more public awareness and more and more political change, and that makes me optimistic.
Oyuna: Without an optimistic outlook, what else is left - what’s the point of having a negative outlook and saying it’s not going to work.
When you had your daughter, did it change your views on the environment and sustainability or strengthen it?
Lily: Yes and no. It probably strengthened it, but I was already working in the environmental space, so it wasn’t new. However, thinking about the next generation and the reality that you're giving this earth to the next generation, and then their children, and their children, and theirs, maybe came home a bit more. It didn’t change me, it just made me more committed to what I was doing.
]]>What was the most challenging part of your job?
I’ve worked in advertising all my professional life. When a client comes to the agency, the easier way for them to picture success is by "selling more”. It’s our job to make them change their mindset and help them think differently about what success can look like if what they are after is a healthy, loved, respected and sustainable business. The pandemic gave people the sense they need less to be happy, so how a brand becomes chosen or loved doesn't depend anymore on how funny or witty their communication is, but how they behave. Because people are watching them and talking about them through social media 24/7.
I guess the short answer to your question would have been finding the best possible creative solution to a problem without compromising my values and beliefs, because the world needs less rather than more stuff going around.
What is the best part about what you do?
Hanging out with creatives and daydreaming about changing the world, even when what we have in front of us is just a fridge (as in the case of Grundig, one of my favourite clients) or a piece of furniture (IKEA, one of Mother’s biggest clients). As Mother’s Brand Ambassador – the position I held until the end of December –, it was a joy talking to the partners in Shanghai in the morning and the ones in LA in the evening to find that no matter how far apart geographically we seemed to be, wanting to make the best possible creative work of our lives while having fun and making a decent living kept us united as a single powerful force.
What took you through the toughest moment in your life?
Trying to conceive a child, without a doubt. Up until that moment I felt invincible, but when I couldn’t get pregnant it was heart-breaking. Imagine working in a place called Mother, having been able to create my own version of Mother in Buenos Aires, Madre (madrelondon.com), creating a nurturing culture, being called by everyone “the Mother” of the place, and not being able to have my own baby. But it taught me to be more humble, more empathetic, more rooted to what is important in life. It was also the biggest proof of resilience I’ve given to myself as, after six IVFs in three years, Domingo (Sun-day), my son and sun, finally came into this world to make sense of it all.
What inspires you at the moment?
Everything! For the first time in almost thirty years, I have time for myself. I went to the cinema last Wednesday at 3pm and I found myself in tears and the movie wasn’t even a sad one. I just felt so happy and present!
The world is an inspiring place if you look it with the right glasses. I am an optimist so I can’t help but to always see the glass half full. There is so much to be done in order to make it right for everyone but that’s what inspires me the most: the amount of people of all ages that wake up every morning with the obsession of getting it right.
Please share with us an inspiring or challenging or fun moment from your life
My entrance into Mother went down as one of the most unusual, fun and unexpected things to ever happen in agency history. Mother had only recently been founded and was at that point just twenty people strong, so upon interview we (my creative partner and I) were told that we were far too senior. Not willing to take a no as an answer, we asked them to be taken on under the guise of students, hungry for work experience. Soon after our entrance, we won a pitch for Coca Cola which led Founding Partner Robert Saville to offer us a job under only one condition: that we agreed Maradona’s goal with the hand was unfair, which we did, without taking away Diego’s merit for having scored the best goal in history in that same match!
How do you envisage the future?
The future is the consequence of the actions we do in the present, so I prefer to focus in the present and make sure that every single action I take is aligned with what I want for Domingo, my son, as the environment where he’ll live in the future. And by environment I am not just talking about the physical world. I am talking about creating a place where there is plenty of freedom, empathy and generosity. As Mahatma Gandhi said: “Be the change you want to see in the world”.
What does humanity need the most?
Humanity. And we need to stop thinking that the Metaverse or the electronic devices are the enemy of humanity. As creative minds, we need to embrace that digital, unknown and -sometimes- scary world and help to shape it, so it becomes a safe place to explore and spend time in. We need to make that world more human.
What does earth mean to you?
Earth means love, perfection, awe. When I observe the wonders of earth like the flowers, the Iguazu Falls (you must visit them!) or the waves I was lucky to surf last October in Portugal, I feel I do not need anything else but more time to be enjoy more of these miracles.
What is the most important thing in life for you?
To try to find as many possible answers as possible to some of the most common questions like what’s love or what’s happiness, or possible definitions to common words like success or failure. I want to make my son’s journey as easy as I can. I would love to be able to eradicate pain from his life, but even if I could, I know as a fact that pain is necessary in life. As Murakami beautifully put it in his book “What I talk about when I talk about running”, describing what it feels to get ready for a marathon:
“It’s precisely because of the pain, precisely because we want to overcome that pain, that we can get the feeling, through this process, of really being alive-or at least a partial sense of it”.
Your new collection for Autumn-Winter 2021 STATERA is out now. What was the inspiration behind this collection?
AW21 is about BALANCE - STATERA in Latin.
The right balance is essential whether we talk about the balance of our minds in our daily life, the balance between protons and electrons on a cellular level in our bodies that results in homeostasis, the balance between nature and human activity. Taking it back to clothing, I wanted to address the BALANCE between function and aesthetic and balance between craft and industry. We need all of them: the industry is as important as craftsmanship and clothing needs to be both practical and aesthetic.
What is your creative process? How does an inspiration transition into a collection?
Usually, it starts with the concept. The concept can come from a rainbow or a sculpture I saw or a thought process like STATERA. Concept really helps for creative ideas to flow. Once ideas start flowing, I start sketching. Concepts can be translated into sketches both in the literal and abstract meaning of concept. After that, we select and group the sketches to create an initial creative Range Plan. Then we do draping on mannequins to turn sketches into 3D shapes, followed by translating 3D shapes into 2D patterns and spec sheets. Which in turn are made into proto samples. We might do 1-3 iterations on samples until samples look good. The whole process takes roughly 6 months for one collection, just to get to the final samples. Then the process of photoshoots, lookbooks, pricing, communications and production starts. Fashion is one of the most laborious processes, it is like creating a new business every 6 months. But we are continuously working on simplifying that to avoid creating more products.
What inspires your personal wardrobe? What qualities do you usually look for in the pieces that you wear?
I like to have a small wardrobe. If I am not using a piece of garment, then I make sure I give it away. I believe that objects in general need to be in use and one should have as few belongings as possible, especially when it comes to clothing. Also, I believe that things that are stored for a long time without getting any use, gather stagnant energy. And who needs that?
How do you refine your Autumn-Winter style? Do you have a favourite season for expressing your personal style?
I like to layer pieces. It creates more interesting looks and also layered pieces create warmth on cold days but can also be used on their own for less cold days. I like multi-use and lightness in my wardrobe as I love travelling light or moving around light in general. I can usually travel just with hand luggage regardless of the length of my travel. Luckily cashmere is the lightest material that keeps you really warm.
I like all seasons, but I do love crisp fresh air as I feel that's a perfect temperature to keep our minds sharp.
Homeware is an essential part of the OYUNA lifestyle range. How does your home reflect your style and inspiration?
Home is made by the energy of people living in it. I think soulful homes are the best homes. It's not about the objects inside the home. I like my home being a place to give us and friends and family, tranquillity to relax but inspire at the same time. I like beautiful details in everything I see around, so of the few objects we have, we enjoy every single one of them. Of course, we love draping our guests in cashmere throws when we are sitting in the garden :)
Positive impact is important for you and the OYUNA team. Please describe your connection with sustainability.
We at OYUNA are creators and consumers at the same time. So, we have a double responsibility. First, to put products out there that are responsibly sourced, made and delivered. Products that last long and can be handed from hand to hand. As consumers, we need to keep on educating ourselves to make right choices and help steering companies towards sustainability through expressing our opinions on their products. Consumers are a powerful force to effect change if they have access to the right information.
Can you share any advice for a more responsible approach to fashion?
Fashion or clothing is an important tool for humans to express themselves. So, we can't deny that we need fashion, we cannot all start wearing the same clothing to save the planet, but we can buy less, buy quality that lasts, pass it on for someone else to use if we are not using it, support brands that are doing a hard work in their sustainability journey and share the information with those around you, spread the word about your sustainability journey.
You regularly meditate and practice yoga. Could you share a mantra that reflects your balanced mindset?
I think the secret to a happy life is to live in such a way that one is happy to die any moment: knowing that those around them will be fine as one has given them all their love and knowledge; no regrets, and content and fulfilled.
Florian Wupperfeld has worked in branding and marketing for nearly 20 years working, amongst others, with BMW Group, smart, adidas, NY Times, Soho House, Jumeirah, or Thompson Hotels. He is also the founder of Leading Culture Destinations, a publishing platform that celebrates the best cultural destinations and experiences around the world, as well as the associated Leading Culture Destination Awards, a unique event that, in its inaugural year, has already started to feel like the Oscars for museums.
@wupperfeldflorian | @lcd.travel
How would you define culture?
Culture makes places smart destinations.
Today, we are witnessing a new trend in culture. Governments, tourism ministries and those companies involved in customised tourism offerings have identified “culture” as one of the key drivers for tourism. Culture not only offers a unique experience in terms of highlighting a city or country’s touristic assets, it is also a way for emerging economies to position themselves in the service sector.
Culture offers people the opportunity to discover the unique DNA of a place. It’s a sustainable form of tourism since the travellers learn – and not just consume.
What are the most inspiring or energising places for you to travel to?
Trancoso, Mexico City, Ibiza and Belgrade.
What does earth mean to you?
Earth = Mama.
What are you currently working on?
Currently I am working on a temporary museum which will travel the world creating social, cultural and commercial value for cities. After Covid there is many new opportunities and challenges to re-activate inner cities and to create a sense of inclusion and experience for citizens.
What is the toughest part of your job?
I come up with new strategies for the future, and the toughest thing is to give people confidence to make decisions, to change and to step beyond their comfort zones — because ‘the new’ or ‘change’ requires courage.
What is the best part about what you do?
The best thing is that I really love what I do.
What is the most important thing in life?
To look forward to tomorrow.
What does sustainability mean to you?
Everybody thinks sustainability is something to do with the environment — which it is — but there is also social sustainability, cultural sustainability, commercial sustainability…
Sustainability means basically to do something which is for the long term, not exploiting other people or resources — but sustainability is also a huge part of greenwashing terminology; it's a very diluted word.
WIND Jacket / Florian's tape art
If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
The sea. Yves Klein Blue.
Strength?
Believing in yourself and pulling through to the end, because everybody can run the first two miles of a marathon, but the last two miles are the toughest ones.
Beauty?
Beauty is something you fall in love with.
Softness?
OYUNA
Precious?
Health.
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Charlotte Taylor is an interior designer, creative director and founder of Maison De Sable - a creative 3D and moving image studio. Charlotte is known for her bold and eye-catching designs, and use of colour.
We would like to start by saying that here in OYUNA we are big fans of your drawings. What is the most important aspect of your creations? Are the colours an important part of it?
Thank you! The composition and framing of the space is always the most important part for me. I almost always structure my concept drawings in a rectangle frame, the spaces and home designs develop from a series of these framed spaces linking together. Colour is an important element too, but often an afterthought not the initial driving force of the work.
How do you develop through the illustration process? Do you begin the process from real life inspiration or from your imagination?
It’s really an amalgamation of everything and anything, some details are from physical spaces or objects that inhabit my home and environment, others are inspired from references and some completely fanatical.
Art, Design and Architecture. How are these 3 worlds combined in your life?
They’re interchangeable for me rather than separate worlds, a lot of my daily life revolves around these practices.
Which artists, buildings or architects inspire you and why?
Lina Bo Bardi and Carlo Scarpa are huge inspirations for me with their bold designs, attention to detail and use of materials.
I have a few simple questions. You can reply with just a word or a couple of words.
If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
The sea
Strength?
The mind
Softness?
Fur
Precious?
Memory
The journey continues in Mongolia. Through the mountains, past the Idriin River, and through the Khorgo Volcano, with a stop inside the Ger of a nomadic family
See more from the journey on our Instagram Stories
The journey continues in Mongolia. Starting in the mountains, meeting Nomads and traveling to Tolbo lake
Stay up to date with daily updates on our Instagram.
Sophie Sellu is founder of sustainable home brand, Grain and Knot.
Grain and knot was born from a love of nature, exploration and the need for purpose in creation. Beautifully tactile, fully functional wooden objects for the kitchen and home, each item is made from reclaimed, storm fallen or sustainably sourced timber. The wooden goods at Grain & Knot are lovingly hand-crafted by Sophie in her home studio.
We sat down to talk with Sophie about her journey, sustainability, her creative process and relationship with nature.
Your story is very interesting. Can you tell our community how the ‘Grain & Knot’ journey began and how you discovered the passion for wood carvings?
I started carving as a way to get away from my computer screen, an unfulfilling job, and as a therapeutic creative act. After two redundancies in a short space of time I decided to explore my creativity.
I was taught basic woodworking skills as a child at school, and really loved the process of making. After attending lots of different creative workshops, I found myself at a spoon carving workshop, in the woods and I was instantly hooked. I loved the process of making something useful, and being surrounded by nature. I took the time to learn, develop my skills and hone my process before launching Grain & Knot around eight years ago.
Over the years my style has grown and developed in a really organic way - and I am so happy to still be learning and adapting along the way.
We commend that each item is unique and handmade in your home studio from reclaimed and sustainably sourced timber - where do you source the wood?
I visit various timber reclamation yards, and often get given pieces of timber from renovation projects to turn into items. My uncle works on renovations of period properties in London, and I have managed to save lots of timber from some of these projects that would otherwise go to waste - and give them a new life.
More recently, I have access to a family run woodland in Kent where I spend a lot of time. I only use trees that have to be taken down due to storm damage, disease, or because they are a danger to the public or neighbouring property.
How does your creative process flow - from sketch to the finished piece?
I am always working on lots of pieces at a time, so my process is rather disjointed. In essence each piece is sketched, refined and adapted to fit a suitable piece of timber using paper templates and cut outs.
The timber selection for each piece is one of the things I struggle with most! Once I've found the perfect pairing, the object is cut out using a bandsaw then carved by hand until I am happy with the end result, slowly chipping away with my carving knife. If I am making a brush I then add the natural fibre bristles, and finish the timber to protect it in use.
Tell us more about your relationship with nature
I am in nature everyday - I have a deep rooted connection just with the materials I use, so I am constantly learning and exploring. The seasonal changes in particular always fascinate me. I spend a lot of time in woodlands in Kent where my materials are sourced and I adore my time spent there. I use it as a place to process my ideas without any distractions and always look to nature for inspiration for my pieces. I try not to overcomplicate my designs and let the beauty of the natural material speak for itself.
I have a few simple questions. You can reply with just a word or a couple of words.
If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
Sea, Sky and a sense of calm
Strength?
Family, Courage
Softness?
Touch
Precious?
Time, Energy
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Over the next few weeks stay tuned to see the trip travelling around Mongolia, to meet and connect with our nomads.
Stay up to date with daily updates on our Instagram.
Edoardo Monti is founder of the dynamic artist residency, Palazzo Monti, in Brescia, Italy. Hosting an orchestra of painters, sculptors, photographers, designers, chefs, and many more creatives, the Palazzo has become a unique space to celebrate creativity and art. Housing creatives for month-long residencies, and leaving a physical trace of their presence with a piece once completed, the Palazzo has become a showcase for the most unique and fresh talent with this non-for profit community project.
We spoke to Edoardo on the unique Palazzo Monti space, inspirations, and empowering creatives.
You have been deeply immersed in the art world through Palazzo Monti. How has your connection to art changed over recent years?
It has evolved from a passive to a definitely active, front line approach. What used to be a topic I’d study, research and travel for, it has also transformed into what I live and breath every day. Getting to know and live with artists all year round has allowed me to approach the contemporary world in a new, more focused and thorough way.
How did the residency come about and what does it offer artists?
When Palazzo Monti was launched, I was living in NYC and working at Stella McCartney’s communications office. I loved my life, yet felt I had to work on my own project, and when the opportunity to come up with a concept to make the most of our family palazzo in Brescia, I knew an artist residency would be the best way to go. The goal was to create, support and nourish a community of creatives, from all over the world. With over 180 artists in less than 5 years, I think we have definitely reached our goal! We offer free stay in the palazzo, where each artists enjoys a private studio and bedroom, and a series of events, dinner and shows to introduce each artist to our network.
Who, or what, inspires you?
Leo Castelli, the NY-based Italian gallerist that created in the XX century a new system in support of artists and the whole art system, is definitely a mentor!
Which artwork has had the biggest impact on you?
Visiting Brancusi’s Atelier in Paris, with all of his completed and work-in-progress sculptures, was a life changing experience. I was in Paris for work and managed to sneak out of the office with a colleague for a few minutes, yet it felt like I had spent hours in that room. It’s a few steps from the Centre Pompidou, yet it’s quiet, calm and with very few people. I knew right there and then that I wanted to live in a space that would somehow resemble that atelier, and I am pleased to say that somehow I managed to create my own massive atelier, lived in by dozens of artists every year.
What are your tips for someone who is standing in front of a blank canvas? How do you choose the right direction for you?
Research, travel and friends are my best suggestions. Researching will provide the best ground on top of which you can build anything: you’ll know what has happened and failed or succeeded in the past, and that is key to know how to take your first steps onto any enterprise. Traveling allows you to put your research into practice, checking out how people in other cities or countries do what you’d like to start doing. Friends are the most important element though: I always had friends that were creative and passionate about anything to do with the Arts, and it’s important to have a good group of people around you to bounce off ideas and get quick feedbacks on big or small decisions.
You empower others through the cultural centre Palazzo Monti. What are the most significant challenges you have felt whilst creating this space? And what have you learned from them?
The biggest challenge is to be able to improve on a daily basis, providing day by day a better experience to both residents and visitors. We a non-profit that runs on very little funds, and we invest every single cent back into the Palazzo. We have changed so much in the past years, and I can only feel excitement thinking where and how we will be in the next 5 years. Definitely the most important lesson is that independence can only bring quality: I’d rather work harder and with less means yet achieving what I have in mind, than having to take a direction that I don’t feel mine just to please whoever provides funding and support.
I have a few simple questions. You can reply with just a word or a couple of words.
If I say blue, what comes to your mind?
Yves Klein
Strength?
Grandmas and grandpas
Softness?
Puppies
Precious?
Friends
in conversation with Oyuna Tserendorj
“My aim has and always will be centred on considered designs, coupled with Mongolian production - from start to finish. I hear first-hand the devastating effects that climate change and industry pressures have on herders and their livelihoods. Our pre-order model will allow herders to directly benefit from the revenues that are generated from their care and work, allowing them to better manage their cash-flow and retain their independence which is integral to nomadic culture.” — Oyuna Tserendorj
What inspired you to create the EARTH collection?
The Earth Day is in April, in Spring. Spring, when our Mongolian nomads comb their goats. Due to Covid they had a tough time last year. So we said how can we help? We thought about a campaign to generate more immediate income for them. That's how it came to life. Ideally we should have done it a few months earlier - but it is better late than never.
Why is the pre-order element important and how does this help herders in Mongolia?
Our nomads work tirelessly all year around, taking care of livestock and grasslands - in winter frost and summer heat. It takes three to four goats to comb enough cashmere for just one simple pullover. When the goats moult once a year in the Spring, nomads comb the precious undercoats - cashmere fibre. Only then do they get paid for the hard work that they have put in over the previous year. We wanted to bring this payment period forward in whatever small way we could.
Part of the proceeds from this campaign will go directly to nomads as Sustainability Awards via SFA. It will also support SFA's Breeding Improvement Programme, which is aimed at improving the quality of Mongolian cashmere, thus allowing nomads to reduce their goat herd sizes and in turn reduce the impact that these have on the precious land.
What are the challenges that herders in Mongolia are facing at the moment?
The herders always have been vulnerable to ad hoc sales rather than reaching long-term businesses. Constant price fluctuations lead to their vulnerabilities to market shocks. In some regions where the livestock population has overweighed stocking rate herders have to deal with the poor vegetation and low productivity of the rangeland. This directly results in inadequate body mass gain, nutrition and forage uptake, thus needing more cash savings to secure fodder, hay, health services. Since the breakup of the socialist regime in the early 90s, herders are being adapted to such ever-changing free-market driven socio-economic and institutional changes that impose new constraints as well as new opportunities.
Can you share your design process for the collection and the meaning behind the colours used?
As the idea behind the collection was mainly to support our nomads with conjunction of Earth Day, it was natural to build a collection around the Earth concept. EARTH COLOURS are represented in 4 groups to celebrate the Earth:
Collection pieces are designed to be wardrobe staples that one could pull out and put on with closed eyes, but at the same time without losing our signature elevated design details. Many of the styles are unisex. These are pieces for all ages, all genders and meant to accompany us on many wonderful journeys on this Earth.
The collection is made from Sustainable Fibre Alliance Certified cashmere, what does this mean?
It means that all cashmere is sourced from herder communities and products are made in factories that comply with SFA's Standard - the world’s first holistic sustainability standard for cashmere. At the heart of the standard are SFA's codes of practice, which outline best practice requirements that must be followed in order for producers to become SFA Certified. Please read more about it here: Sustainable Fibre Standard.
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